In her preface, Rodee, curator of the collections at the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology at the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque, explains that originally she intended to write a new edition of her book Southwestern Weaving, first published in 1977. Southwestern Weaving served as a catalog of the Southwestern textile holdings of the Maxwell Museum. It was Rodee's intention that Weaving of the Southwest would simply illustrate the Museum's acquisitions made over the past 10 years. The project, however, grew into a much broader undertaking, expanding to include the results of Rodee's research of recent years. Her research has resulted in a number of essays focusing primarily on the Navajo weaving tradition. The lengthy section devoted to Navajo textiles covers a wide range of subjects such as the history of trade with other Native Americans, changes in ceremonial pattern weaving, new approaches to marketing weavings, and current weaving conditions.

One interesting issue Rodee addresses is how the tradition of weaving is passed down from one generation to the next within a Navajo family. Although studies have been done on Pueblo pottery-making families, there has been scant research on Navajo weaving families. Rodee questioned Navajo weavers about family style. She concludes that weavers living in traditional Navajo residence patterns tend to share designs and learn weaving techniques from one another. Also, complex interaction between innovative, young weavers and family weaving traditions produces gradual visual changes.

In tracing the history of the Navajo weaving tradition, Rodee examines the role of non-native trade. The influence of early trading post operators John B. Moore at Crystal, New Mexico, and John Lorenzo Hubbell at Ganado, Arizona, is examined. They encouraged weavers to use patterns on rugs they believed would be popular with Anglo- American consumers. Included among the color plates is a series of watercolors of traditional Navajo textiles painted by E. A. Burbank that once hung in the Hubbell Trading Post for weavers to study and copy.

The section that deals with Navajo ceremonial pattern textiles is one of the most interesting. The development of Ye'ii and Ye'ii Bicheii figure rugs, as well as drypainting rugs, is traced from the last quarter of the 19th century. The sacred symbols incorporated into those rugs are taken from drypaintings used in traditional Navajo healing ceremonies. Weavers who deal with these powerful symbols must exercise caution while weaving since a great deal of religious fear surrounds ceremonial pattern weaving. Over 60 color plates and black-and-white photographs of ceremonial textiles illustrate the text in this section.

Along with each plate and photograph is a detailed description of the textile, which includes information about the known date of manufacture, dimensions, warp and weft count, type of weaves, yarns and dyes, name of weaver when known, collector, and collection history. A glossary proves useful with clear definitions of weaving terms to help those who are unfamiliar with words such as "ravelled" or "tapestry." Weaving of the Southwest should be especially appreciated by people who are familiar with Southwestern textiles but want to increase their knowledge. Throughout the book, little-known facts are found about almost every subject covered. For example, in the section discussing uses of textiles by Navajos, one discovers that they have served as workspace dividers, sun shades for weavers working at outdoor looms, and as litters to carry the injured. One Anglo- American usage of Navajo textiles once in fashion was the portiere or doorway cover. A photograph of Navajo blankets hanging in the doorway of anthropologist Matilda Coxe Stevenson's parlor in the late 1800s is included.

The book is not without minor flaws. There are a number of typographical errors and several photographs that are out of focus. But these barely detract from this highly recommended book. It's the kind of book to keep on your bedside table for late-night browsing. If you find you're too tired to read, enjoy looking at 194 color plates and 385 black- and-white photographs of some outstanding textiles.

Weaving of the Southwest by Marian Rodee (Schiffer Publishing Ltd., West Chester, Pennsylvania, 1987.)